Fabric



Feb. 6, 1934. H. WEINSTEIN 1,946,301

FABRIC Filed March 18, 1932 IN VENTOR Loam H I l ez/wzez/a 45 ATTORNEY Patented Feb. 6, 1934 T E S PATENT QFFICE 1 Claim.

The present invention relates to fabrics and more particularly to such as are adapted for the manufacture of collars for personal wear.

Among the principal objects which the present invention has in view are: To produce in the fabric, creasing areas arranged to form a multiply filler area disposed adjacent the collar folding edge for increasing the body thereof; to facilitate the formation of folded corner points for the completed collar without adding unnecessary bulk thereto; and to dispose said filler portion and bordering creasing areas to facilitate the construction of the completed collar.

Drawing:

5 Figure 1 is a view of a fragment of the textile constructed and arranged as in accordance with the present invention.

Figure 2 is a cross section on enlarged scale, the section being taken as on the line 22 in 29 Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a section of the fabric taken as on the line 3-3 in Figure 1.

Figure 4 is a section of the fabric taken as on the line 4-4 in Figure 1.

Description:

The fabric herein disclosed is in the main that employed in the manufacture of collars for personal wear known in the market as the Van Heusen Collar.

This fabric is woven on gang-looms arranged to produce in the finished article a warp-curbed material, that is to say, a material wherein the warp threads are disposed in a curved line when the fabric is laid flat.

The material as woven permits of the construction of thickened areas disposed lengthwise of the fabric, the thickened structure resulting from the disposition or placement in the body of the structure of filler warp threads which are bound into the structure by the woof threads, which are open and closed by the harness of the loom in the usual manner, binding the loose or added warp threads to a close woven material, the body of which is increased by the added warp threads.

In the present structure, the warp threads are disposed numerically with reference to the formation of edge areas 10, apron areas 11, creasing areas 12, filler areas 13, creasing areas 14, neckband areas 15, and edge areas 16.

The areas 10, 12, 14 and 16 are rendered relatively thin in body by the omission of the filler threads 17 shown best in Figure 3 of the drawing. The filler threads 1'7 are used principally in thickening or adding to the body of the areas 11,

.13 and 15.

(c1. ice-385.5)

By means of Figures 2 and 3, I have under taken to explain the peculiar structure of this fabric.

Referring to Figure 3 which is a cross section of the fabric, in the areas 11, 13 and 15, I find a filling thread 17, a plurality of warp threads 18, a shuttle thread 19, and a binder thread 20.

It is obvious that any number of filling threads can be employed, increasing or diminishing the body weight or construction of the fabric. On opposite sides,say the upper and lower side of the fabric,-the warp threads 18 are manipulated by means of harness reeds as in the ordinary loom above and below the layer of filler threads 1'7, the shuttle threads 19 being carried back and forth through the warp threads 18 in the usual manner. Operating at the same time and in harmony with the harnesses working the warp threads 18, is a harness controlling the disposition of the binder thread 20. This thread is car- 5 ried through the fabric, both the upper and lower woven structures, and the filler structure, in such manner that when the shuttle threads 19 are carried through and between the warp threads 18, they pass through the loop formed by the binder threads 20. Assuming that the proper tensions are applied throughout, it is obvious that all of the threads are united and binded into a homogeneous mass by the binder thread 20.

By using such a construction I am enabled to have on the one side of a fabric, a superior quality of thread. This is particularly advantageous in constructing the section of the fabric indicated by the numeral 11, which is the section that ultimately becomes the apron of the collar for personal wear. It also permits the arrangement of the filler threads to increase the body thickness of this portion of the fabric as and where desired, which is found advantageous in forming what is known as a bellied formation peculiarly desirable for the so-called apron or front portion of the collar.

As seen in Figure 2 of the drawing, the section of the fabric indicated by the numeral 10 is of a lighter or thinner quality, produced by the omission of the filler threads 17, the warp threads 18, shuttle threads 19 and binder thread 20 all being employed in forming this section or area of the fabric. The advantage of such a construction is that when the collar is cut from this fabric, the point or front corner of the collar comes within this area. This front corner is folded upon itself to shape the collar as desired, and this fold is usually made by overturning the material thus thickening the structure at this point. A disa- 1m greeable wadding or bunching of the material is apt to result. It is for this reason that using the relatively thin material is advantageous.

Sections of the creasing areas 12 and 14 are indicated in Figure 4 of the drawing. Here the threads have been so arranged that I have what may be termed a single ply omitting the employment of the upper and lower sheds thereby using only one layer of warp threads 18, and one layer of shuttle threads 19. This is, of course, the thinnest structure that the loom is capable of.

During the manipulation of the weaving of the fabric, it is drawn off in a curved linear line. The curve at which the operation is set is that which is ascertained as conforming to the human neck so that when the collar blanks are cut from the fabric, the areas 10 and 11 will fold upon the areas 15 and 16 in a natural curve, or set to conform to the neck of the wearer.

Also it will be found that the area 13 may be readily folded by means of the creasing area 14 upon the area 15 which, in the completed collar, is the collar band. Also the areas 10 and 11 may be then folded by means of the creasing area 12 upon the neckband of the collar. When the filler area 13 is sewed down upon the neckband area 15, there will be added to the resulting collar, a thickening of the body of the collar at what may be termed the fold of the collar.

It will be understood that the fabric herein disclosed is run off from the loom in suitable lengths to be thence delivered to a cutter, where the blanks are cut by suitable dies for the formation or construction of collars, which collars will have a thickened body at the front or apron of the collar, the neckband of the collar, and the collar fold, which latter will be augmented to resemble a three-ply structure.

I claim:

A fabric for the construction of collars for personal wear having disposed lengthwise thereof in narrow spaced relation, a relatively thin and narrow creasing section and a slightly wider creasing section for forming a filler strip therebetween for folding said collars for wear, said filler strip and said wide; creasing section being of substantially equal width, and said fabric and said creasing sections being curved lengthwise thereof.

LOUIS H. WEINSTEIN. 

